Islamabad: The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) has announced that the mortal remains of 43-year-old British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja, along with three other climbers, have been brought down to Base Camp following a high-altitude recovery operation on Broad Peak.
According to an official statement posted on Instagram by the President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the mortal remains of Nirmal Purja, Zhong Wang, Nima Sherpa, and Kilu Sherpa were successfully recovered during an “exceptionally challenging and technically demanding recovery operation.”
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The ACP President said, “On behalf of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, I am pleased to confirm that, following an exceptionally challenging and technically demanding recovery operation on Broad Peak, the mortal remains of Nirmal Purja, Zhong Wang, Nima Sherpa, and Kilu Sherpa have been successfully recovered and have now arrived safely at Base Camp.”
The recovery effort was carried out by a dedicated ground team.
“I extend my sincere gratitude to the dedicated ground recovery team, led by Mingma G and supported by Sirbaz Khan, Abid Baig, Sherbaz, together with Dipen Gurung and Pemba Chhewang Sherpa, whose courage, professionalism, and selfless commitment made this recovery possible under extremely difficult conditions,” the ACP President stated.
Acknowledging institutional support, the ACP President added, “I also wish to express my sincere thanks to the British High Commission and the Embassy of Nepal for their valued support and cooperation during this difficult time.”
Addressing the search for the remaining missing climbers, the ACP President noted, “While today marks an important milestone, three climbers remain missing. We remain committed to supporting all possible efforts to locate and recover them, whenever conditions allow, so that they too may be returned home to their loved ones.”
“The recovered climbers will now begin their final journey home to their families. We hope this recovery brings them a measure of peace and the opportunity to lay their loved ones to rest with the dignity they deserve,” the ACP President said, adding, “On behalf of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, I extend our deepest condolences to the families, friends, and the global mountaineering community.”
The recovery comes amid mourning across the international mountaineering community following the avalanche on Broad Peak last Thursday that claimed the lives of 10 climbers.
Family members, relatives, and members of the climbing fraternity gathered in Kathmandu for a candlelight vigil in memory of the climbers whose mortal remains remained on the slopes of the world’s 12th-highest peak.
Among those present was Pemba Rita Sherpa, a 14-time Everest summiteer, who paid tribute to his cousin killed in the avalanche.
“I am the cousin of Kili Pemba Sherpa. Today we have gathered here to hold a candlelight vigil paying tribute to all 10 climbers. The entire mountaineering fraternity is mourning their departure,” Pemba Rita Sherpa told ANI.
“We are praying for their mortal remains to be brought back to Kathmandu very soon and request the government as well for it. We want their mortal remains to be brought here as soon as possible,” Pemba Rita added.
The memorial ceremony, organised at Maitighar Mandala in Kathmandu, was also attended by Mike Harker, Public Affairs Chief at the US Embassy in Nepal, along with bereaved families and members of the mountaineering community.
Paying tribute to the deceased, Tul Singh Gurung, President of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA), told ANI: “This program is organised to honour those who lost their lives in Broad Peak recently, a couple of days ago. The country and the mountaineering community we had lost; I cannot explain the loss due to this accident. I really honour those people (climbers) whom we lost in Broad Peak, especially like Nims Dai, who held different records for the nation, for the world, for the mountaineering community.”
The recovery mission has been underway since Saturday, led by veteran Nepali climber Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Mingma G), Dawa Sherpa, and Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan.
Purja, also known as Nimsdai, and his team were struck by an avalanche while attempting to summit the 8,051-metre Broad Peak last Thursday.
Initial hopes of finding him alive emerged after tracking data indicated a movement of about 10 metres. However, rescue efforts were delayed, and the movement was later confirmed to be a technical glitch.
Tracking data showed Purja had reached an altitude of 6,659 metres above Camp II at 9:38 am (local time) on Thursday before recording an 800-metre drop to 5,891 metres at 10:18 am, consistent with an avalanche strike.
Born in Nepal’s Myagdi district, Purja joined the British Army’s Gurkha Regiment in 2003 and was selected for the UK Special Forces in 2009. He left military service in 2018 to pursue mountaineering full-time and was awarded the Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) by Queen Elizabeth II the same year.
Purja gained worldwide recognition in 2019 after completing “Project Possible 14/7,” climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks in a record six months and six days.
Before the recovery of Purja and three other climbers, rescue teams had already retrieved the mortal remains of Nepali climbers Gyalu Sherpa and Pur Bahadur Gurung “Yukta”, Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy, and a severed leg believed to belong to American climber Mallory Geis.
