Every year, millions of people visit Rome. The Colosseum, The Vatican and other historical sites are the musts for most people. Devouring on pizza, pasta and caprese – a routine. But, as a tourist, have you ever wanted to go off the beaten path. Visit the often-ignored quarters of the city that only locals and well researched people know about. Relish local flavours?
If this excites you, then head to the Jewish Ghetto of Rome, a gorgeous hidden treasure of Rome. By the banks of the Tiber river on one side and the Venice Square on the other, this place is an experience in itself. Most travel guides will tell you that this area is real Rome with authentic ancient Rome styled food – not acquired with the tastes of modern palate like pizzas and pastas.
I took the que and headed to this wonderous quarters, getting drawn to its local charm in a matter of seconds.
Historical significance –
The Jewish Ghetto is considered the most ancient of the western world. Pope Paul IV, had ordered its construction in 1555, by revoking all rights granted to the Roman Jews and gating them in this area. The Jews were subjected to a series of obligations and prohibitions. A few of them being –
• Limited access to the outside world
• Wearing yellow to signify that they were from the ghetto
• prohibition on trading, with the exception of rags and clothes
• Not own any property.
The Jews were discriminated against and even during Hitler’s times, the Nazis caught over 1,000 Jews from the area. Only 16 survived the extermination.
However, after the Italian republic was formed, the segregation was abolished. Over the course of the years, the ancient, narrow streets and old buildings were demolished to make way for newer ones.
What to see here –
• The Synagogue, with a Jewish museum and a Spanish temple are the most popular tourist places here
• The Portico d’Ottavia dates back to the 2nd century BC. A beautiful ruin, it was originally a large fish market with a church
• The fountain of the turtles
• Finally, don’t miss the Tiberine island, the smallest inhabited island in the world, which can be reached by a two-minute walk across the bridge.
The delectable array of food –
Kosher philosophy is the basis of Jewish cuisine. Kosher is a set of rules, mostly religious in nature and origin that determine the nutrient value for the Jews.
As a tourist, tired of eating pizzas and pastas, this place is a heavenly treat. Distinct tastes, flavourful grills, curried pastes and vegetables make way to your table. Some of the must tries are –
• Fish broth
• Fried artichokes cooked Jewish style
• Lamb with roasted potatoes and stuffed fish
• Homemade spaghetti with curried sauces
Tip it up with local red wine or Prosecco based cocktails.
In Via del Portico d’Ottavia, you will find a number of restaurants with quaint outdoor seating. There is music, delightful whispers and smells that mesmerise. Among the known are Taverna del ghetto, Nonna Betta, Giggetto al Portico d’Ottavia and Sora Margherita.
I strongly recommend Nonna Betta for their authentic taste and warm and friendly staff (Anthony Bourdain, the famed travel writer, had also written about them).
As they say – when in Rome, do as the Romans do! The Jewish quarters are one of them.